On the fringe of the London Fashion Week diary

Tuesday

Bally loves CSM

by Elizabeth Marchetti

It seems like high-fashion brands never get enough of Central Saint Martins’ fashion students. So, it came as no surprise that Swiss brand Bally, renowned for its luscious leather, asked a group of students from the MA Fashion Design Course to submit women’s shoe designs for them.

Out of the fifteen finalists chosen by MA course director Louise Wilson, five talented and lucky students won a trip to Italy and Switzerland to complete their designs with a team of experts, before presenting them today in a lavish room at Brown’s Hotel in Green Park. These are William Hendry; Estefania Cortes Harker, Frida Hofslagare, Charles Youssef and Stephanie Turner.

I cannot deny that the shoes on display are ridiculously mouth-watering. In monochrome pastel tones of pink,grey and black, they are constructed in suede and leather and look exquisitely elegant, with an ergonomically curvy shape and human-friendly heels: thick at the base, of reasonable height. The collection looks professional, exclusive and very wearable.

I instantly have my eye on a pair of platform heeled beige suede ankle boots with inside zippers, but I also spot plexi-glass heels mixed to black leather and another pair in cotton candy hue which would make Marie-Antoniette very happy. The shoes combine style with comfort.

To read the full story, go here.

CSM graduates at Summerset house

by Elizabeth Marchetti

Phew! It’s definitely been a busy week for many Central Saint Martins’ alumni.

A new breed of hot designers, hailed as the next big thing and new generation of London trendsetters, was showing their collections at Somerset House. Surely, you have heard of Louise Goldin, Mark Fast,Mary Katrantzou and Michael Van der Ham by now?

If not, you will soon, as they have all designed capsule collections for beloved Topshop.

I met some of the class of 2010, who will certainly be dictating our style choices in the future.

Christian Blanken, a CSM graduate, decides to present his collection with a live installation of a model trapped in an illuminated cube who acknowledges the audience, bringing an element of performance.

The mood is clean but futuristic. He seems to be designing for the active woman, minimal and comfortable who wears her hair up and barely has enough time to fix her make-up. 

His collection showing in the Portico Rooms is bold, fierce and utilitarian: playing mainly with monochrome layers and different eye-catching fabrics.

Urban sportswear hangs in loose and fluid motions around the body, with military details like zippers and big pockets, mixing leather and jersey with sharp tailoring in tones of anthracite grays, metallic blacks and burnished gold tones.

Bryce Aime is the next on my list.

The French CSM graduate in BA Fashion, class 2005, knows his deal of self-promotion.

In fact, I am familiar with his energetic and explosive sense of style since he requested my friendship on Facebook a while back. To give you a reference, Rihanna’s Rambo-style warrior queen-look in her video Hard is Aime’s creation.

The designer is happy to talk about his latest collection in an honest un-prepped way. He says it was inspired by Egyptology and “mummification - the bandage, the shape.”

Cue his decision not to use shoes in his show: flicking through laptop pictures, he points out the model’s feet wrapped in leggings, because the shoes were “too distracting”.

He expands saying: “It’s a mix of fabric and texture: from a sitting point of view it was just a stream of clothes. My style is always very graphic. I take a theme, then work on this pattern and tailoring, so I keep this connection from one season to another.

"I’ve never been to Egypt, though I had already done things about Egypt at college. But it shouldn’t be why: this is the beauty of accident. I like architecture.

"My style is graphic: constriction, deconstruction but not much. There is always one strong print in one or two tones and a mixture of fabric which is interesting to have. I never go too much into volume, maybe one day I will but today I like to work flat, on the cut."

Body-con junkie then? “Well, I’ve moved a bit away from this very tight silhouette, though it’s the one I like. We have a bit of kaftans and tunics.”

Who is the ideal woman in his mind during his design process? “None, really. When you think about reality, you lose creativity so I have to imagine something that doesn’t exist. I never think ‘Who is going to wear this?’”

Designers he admirers are surely visionaries: “Of course, there are. But I don’t tend to follow the press these days, because unconsciously you are going to be doing what they do, the brain works like that.

"But Thierry Mugler is someone I really admire…it’s more than clothes…it’s the whole thing around it that is very powerful.”

Looking back at his experience at CSM, he says: “They push you to creativity. It was hard to turn that chapter, it’s a part of your life that is difficult to turn away and a bit of a shock to come to reality. The best time of my life, definitely!”

His advice for us students is: “You have to work your ass off and be careful what you wish for: you might just get it.”

But he reckons that working hard is not enough: “Ah you have to be lucky, full stop. I mean everybody works hard huh? I imagine you work hard as well. The right people, instinct and destiny are a big recipe.” After a brief talk about our horoscope, I dash off.

David Koma’s latest collection was predictably a hit.

Known for his empowering “look at me” clothes, he continued down the line of body conscious silhouettes.

Emphasizing on the sense of movement and timeless structure, he created dresses with exaggerated triangular seam, combining soft nappa leather and the finest Italian wool in basic black, beige and greys.

His usual smiley self, he was enjoying his break from the madness.

He said: “LFW was quite stressful at the beginning, but the show went smoothly and amazing people came to my show. So I feel super-free, super-happy and really inspired for the next season. It went absolutely amazing and more than exceeded my expectations.”

What was the inspiration behind it? “It was me playing around the female body. I was inspired by Italian Futurism, and playing between soft and perfect lines to make girls look beautiful.”

Despite sex kittens Cheryl Cole, Beyonce and Rihanna favouring his designs, his approach to fashion didn’t change: “Every season I do what I feel right, and what I love. When I take the paper, I just sketch and draw what I feel is right and afterwards, having certain stars thinking this is what they want and this is how they feel, it’s amazing that your design is popular. I’m really happy!”

He thanks his time at CSM too: “Obviously, [I have to thank] Professor Louise Wilson. For me she’s the best person in the world! Without her support, I wouldn’t be where I am, honestly, she actually helped me.”

So, after critical acclaim, what’s next? "The next level!” he laughs and adds: “I’m going to really do my best to achieve better collection each season and we’ll see how far I can go.”

And it looks like London will be seeing a lot of him. “I plan on staying here forever. London is my home!”. Londoners, watch this space.

Monday

Gavin Bond: Music

by Elizabeth Marchetti

An independent PR gallery hidden in the East End, far from the ostentatious glamour of central London, is the ideal setting to celebrate Gavin Bond: one of the most irreverent photographers of the Noughties.

The Central Saint Martins graduate’s repertoire includes fashion, cinema, advertisement and music, with his influential photos regularly appearing in glossy publications like Q, GQ, Vogue and Marie Claire.

But this retrospective at the Idea Generation Gallery entitled 'Gavin Bond: Music. 21st Century Rock’n’Roll royalty' focuses on his status as a music photographer who mingles with the likes of AC/DC, Aerosmith, Green Day, Ozzy Osborne, The Killers, Velvet Revolver, Kings of Leon and Katy Perry; both in the comfort of studios and on-the-road.

Jealous, us?

True to Bond’s style, the private viewing was intimate and relaxed and yet featuring a loud rock soundtrack.

An arty and laid-back crowd of guests (a cool lad with an afro was spotted wearing a mad hatter hat, duster coat and shades) sipped on beers and pina coladas, granted through donations for Haiti at the bar.

The white, airy, spacious walls were filled with large glossy photographs printed on Kodak paper, which gave them a platinum reflection and accentuated the bold, captivating colours, and they all had a raw energy and intimate quality, featuring its iconic subjects toying with their Rock star persona: in fact, us mere mortals could never pull off those effortlessly cool poses without looking like we are trying too hard.

They would say: “Screw you! We can do what we like and you’ll love us no matter what”. So, we see Bono holding a fire extinguisher; Steve Tyler with his owl, looking like a mystic; Ozzy running backstage; Green Day in their studio, and Scott Weiland standing in a desolated hotel bathroom. We are granted a sultry female presence in the form of Katy Perry, veering on to S&M.

Although Bond is no stranger to celebrities, he is more than happy to speak to everyone and pose for pictures. He is chatting away to guests in a tailored grey blazer, jeans and metal studded Chuck Taylors.

When he finds out I am from University of the Arts, he is pleasantly surprised: “That’s where I studied too!” he smiles and gushes “I LOVED St Martins! Absolutely loved it. I wouldn’t be here today if it wasn’t for it”.

Bond has just come back to London after relocating to the US for ten years, yet he has managed to stay in touch with his tutors: “Some of them will be joining me later” he reveals.

"The night has just started, but so far it’s been really great” he admits and politely shakes my hand before dashing off.

The exhibition runs until March 21 and is a must for music lovers. And if you have between £800 and 6000 quid to spend, you may have found the perfect poster for your crib.

Saturday

Discover Young Hackney '10 at LCF

by Akilah Russell

Simultaneously with fashion week, the London College of Fashion (LCF) opened its doors to youth arts and culture festival, Discover young Hackney ‘10, hosting a series of free fashion workshops for young people.

The Mare Street college of LCF welcomed local 11-19 year olds, all wanting to take part in the activities which included print making, 3D construction and fashion illustration: "We are happy to have the young people here at LCF.

"We hope that they gain something from the day, and by giving them a taste of fashion we inspire them to consider going to fashion college or university one day," said event coordinator and London College of Fashion staff, Michele Buchanan.

With each workshop offering activities such as designing and making a bag or creating 3D clothes, it appeared that it was the variety that was the biggest hit amongst the young volunteers: "I like it because there is so much different stuff to do. You can move around and try everything out if you want to. Plus you get to take the stuff home," said Tidi Okonoboh, 12.

Current LCF students also came to the event to volunteer as teaching assistants for the day: "It benefits us as well to help out, because it’s great opportunity to learn whilst teaching, and it really is fun to take part," said Kelesi Anim, 19, currently studying Fashion Illustration at LCF.

The Mare Street LCF college will also be open 24 hours a day during fashion week to help support the designers and students who are taking part.

Friday

McQueen tribute at Somerset House opening ceremony

by Fardusa Hassan

Hundreds gathered at Somerset House on the morning of Friday, 19 February to pay their respects to the late Alexander McQueen at the opening of London Fashion Week, by holding a one-minute silence.

Harold Tillman, chairman of the British Fashion Council and alumni of University of Arts London began the opening ceremony with a touching tribute to the iconic British designer who committed suicide last week.

Tillman described in his speech that McQueen’s impact in the fashion industry was extraordinary and that he’d be sorely missed. 

A memorial wall was also put up in the centre of Somerset House for people to post messages for the much-loved designer.

One message read: “Your shows inspire the work I do. You are a true creative genius and one of the reasons why Britain is what it is. I cherish the one item that I have. Zoë.”

Prime Minister Gordon Brown’s wife Sarah Brown, who opened the ceremony, highly praised young designers who were shaping the future of UK fashion: “I am uplifted by their passion and fearless determination. Fashion has taken its place as one of the most dynamic parts of the creative economy," she said.

Read the full story here.

Danny Tang at Freemasons Hall

by Fardusa Hassan

The Vauxhall Fashion Scout, an off schedule event on the fringe of London Fashion Week that focuses on emerging and talented designers was set up at Freemasons Hall in Central London today.

Queues were packed-out for the event but we managed to squeeze in and at 4.15pm, Danny Tang, former London College of Fashion (LCF) student made his catwalk debut with his Autumn/Winter Collection 2010, Urban Victorian.

Inspired by Queen Victoria, the show was based around a simple colour pallet of three main colours: red, black and gold.

Tang produced exquisite feminine pieces dashed with black French lace, chiffon and silk reflecting the beauty and elegance of Victorian era with a modern twist.

The models presented a variety of designs, themed in gold, black and red and ranging from full length elegant gowns layered in chiffon and lace.

On top of some of the dresses were short, puff sleeved jackets. The colours  stayed within their themed range and never strayed beyond the sophisticated and glamorous look.

To match, each model had sequins and beads decoratively worn across their eyes. Danny Tang’s standouts included a stunning full bodied black dress with a daring plunging neckline and a chic silk wool navy cape with black lace trimmings around the pockets.

After the show, Danny explained his theme and ideas about Urban Victorian and what it represented.

He said: “I had a lot of red, black and gold. Each colour represents a different feeling for me, red represents passion and romanticism. Gold represents royalty and class and black represents conservative, sophistication and all of this mixing together makes my collection basically.

“Urban Victorian is about grace and elegance and little bit of edginess. It’s because I believe that London fashion has moved to the edgy side and that the elegant side of it acquainted with Paris and Milan, so for me I wanted to bring back some grace and elegance back to London fashion.”

Pictures : Flora Savastano

Thursday

Pre-Fashion Week show at Movida

by Akilah Russell

London Fashion week kicked off in style last night at an exclusive pre-London Fashion Week cat walk show which showcased six designers, including the critically acclaimed London College of Fashion (LCF) alumnus Valentine Avoh.

Held at the award-winning, exclusive members only club Movida in west London, Design and Pattern Cutting graduate Avoh displayed a stunning womenswear collection reminiscent of 1940’s movie star glamour, equipped with perfectly tailored dresses, intricate detail matched with built in waist belts – all rendered in regal golds, purples, and reds. 

Belgium born Avoh spoke exclusively to Arts London News about the show and what we should expect from 2010 fashion week: "My collection means so much to me, and it really is so exciting to have it showcased at such a like event like this one.

"It is so different to see it on the runway, so I am really nervous but still excited to see the reactions from people.

"I am launching my brand in Belgium this year, so everything is starting to come together," said Avoh who graduated in 2006.

"This year’s fashion week is going to be huge! I am happy to be apart of the pre shows, it is amazing here!’’ she added.

The night's honourable mentions of excellence must go to Loise Porte whose brightly coloured knitwear collection was quirkily inspired by "the underrated butterfly" that is the moth.

The other designers included Sally Ellis with her 'SVE' collection, Nicole Hellrung, and Rosie Keating.

Pictures: Allie Suwanrumpha