Caroline Smithson, fashion's rising star
Surrounded by the mannequins and students carefully working away at the Central Saint Martin’s atelier, Caroline Smithson recalls how she always knew what she wanted to be.
“I’ve always wanted to be a fashion designer. My first fashion memory is making a small white shirt for my teddy with my grandmother when I was around seven.”
Smithson, 30, graduated from CSM with an MA in Fashion Design in 2010. Born and raised in Berwick-Upon-Tweed, although her father was a lawyer and her mother an eye specialist, they have always been supportive of her creative career choice: “My parents have always encouraged my brother and me to do whatever we wanted to do. They wish they had chosen more creative paths. They are both very stylish and interested in the arts, so in a way I suppose I have followed in their footsteps in that sense.”
Experience is the key
Her path to CSM was not straightforward, however; she obtained a BA in Fashion Design at Kingston University and then went on to work as a designer for Levi’s in 2002. Three years later, she became the head of design at Edwin Jeans Europe and soon after, she became a denim specialist working for Gap and Whistles. “I am always seeing people in the clothes I have designed – especially the denim line I did at Edwin; it is a great feeling,” she admits.
Central Saint Martins' Fashion MA "the best"
Although pleased with what she was doing, Smithson says: “I felt like I was designing the same thing over and over again and I needed something to refresh myself. To set myself a new challenge.” Wanting to explore a more creative direction, Smithson decided after seven years in the industry to take a leap of faith and apply to the renowned MA Fashion Design course. “I didn’t even consider other MA courses, it was clear that CSM was the best and having spoken to friends in the industry, it was clear it was also professionally considered the best,” she gladly admits. Her previous experience in the industry had taught her how to effectively brainstorm ideas and given her more confidence.
Working with Phoebe Philo
She believes it was the best preparation for the challenging course she was about to embark on. In 2008 she began her new adventure with CSM and while on the course, she had the chance to intern with Phoebe Philo and Hannah MacGibbon, both of whom previously had studied at CSM and are now respectively, creative directors of Céline and Chloé. “Work experience with big designers means that you work with beautiful fabrics and you can really appreciate why the clothes are so expensive when you see the level of care that goes into them. “It is also fantastic to work with truly talented people, it’s inspiring,” she adds.
Military inspiration behind feminine collection
Talking about inspiration, Smithson explains how her collection came to life, from sketch to runway. “It took me around five months to put this collection together – it was all worth it. I feel proud of what I’ve accomplished,” she candidly confesses. Ruffled tops and military jackets were popular in Smithson’s collection, as were high-waisted trousers and structured garments – featured in the likes of long coats and dresses. “My collection was based on the second wave of feminism in the ’70s, it has strong military and protest march references.”
Smithson also designed a modern and unique collection embracing the contemporary woman: hard on the outside and soft on the inside. Smithson unzips the bag that contains the garments and dressed the mannequins; displaying one piece expressing gentleness – a ruffled silk top – and the other expressing harshness – a military jacket with zippers. Smithson’s Autumn/Winter 2010 collection’s colour palette is predominantly black, grey and nude, with heaps of zippers and layers. The zippers are Smithson’s way of uncovering the soft woman under all the roughness. “I designed with strong and powerful women in mind but I wanted their softness and femininity to come out through the seams of the clothing,” she adds.
University friendships
When asked if she has any intention to pursue menswear, it is obvious that she is not interested: “I’ve done menswear in the past, professionally, but I find womenswear more of a challenge.” She continues: “I also feel more connected to womenswear because, essentially, it’s the clothes I would like to wear and the clothes I can see my friends wearing.” Her time at CSM has been exactly what she expected; she set herself a new challenge and explains that the MA has tested her and changed her. She also speaks about the benefits of enrolling onto the MA course and admits that: “It has given me a better understanding of design and how to get the best out of myself.” Not only has her time at CSM improved her professional life but it has also had an impact on her personal one. “My time here has given me some of the best friends I have ever met.”
Aiming high
Although she did not get the chance to showcase her designs at CSM’s MA fashion show last February, her work did not go unnoticed. “I am currently working on projects for some well-known design houses around the world,” she says refusing to reveal more for fear of bringing bad luck. With a laugh, she reveals: “In a few years I would hope to be working as a senior designer for a well respected design house. So watch this space!”