When fashion fades, style is eternal

by Alice Parfrement

The new golden age of cinema continues the growing trend of fashion linking to and influencing film. But there is nothing new about fashion being on the silver screen. Since Gone with the Wind in 1939, generations of fashion desigers have been inspired by Scarlet’s rather petite 18-inch wasit.

Shoot forward to 1967’s Belle de Jour, Catherine Denueve’s wardrobe was designed by Yves Saint Laurent himself and the buckled Roger Vivier shoes are still fashionable now.

In 1999 The Talented Mr Ripley brought together fanciful ‘50s summer clothes. Gwyneth Paltrow showed off printed A-line skirts with light blouses tied at the waist to create a wholesome look to complement and at moments outshine the beautiful Italian scenary. The contrasting female character played by Cate Blanchett empitomised classic ‘50s Hollywood glamour, which many celebrities still favour on the red carpet.

Modern fashion icon, Sienna Miller inspired many in Factory Girl in 2006. Flouncing around in black leotards, enormous animal skins and statement jewellery, a look still reflected in a lot of high street fashion.

The hit film Atonement (2007) had viewers gasping at the green satin evening dress Keira Knightley dazzled us all with in the pivotal moment of the film. Costume designer Jacqueline Durran seized the elegance of the ‘30s style with understated yet gorgeous clothes worn by the star.

A film that looks set to rock the fashion world is the return of Carrie Bradshaw and co in Sex and the City 2, which is out 28 May. For the first SATC film, stylist Patricia Field delivered bigger, brighter and more costume changes than the television series would ever have dared and the second is rumored to have an even fuller wardrobe bursting with designer labels and fabulous style. The shoes include Manolos and Louboutins, the bags are Alaia and Chloe, the clothes Halston Heritage, Christian Dior and more. On set trends consist of harem pants for the girls’ trip to Abu Dhabi, mini and maxi dresses, sequins, waist belts galore, statement accessories and vivid colours and prints. Forget the story line, just be prepared to get carried away by the fashion in this film.

Designers have been increasingly involved in film over the years. Last year, American fashion designer Tom Ford turned his creativity to directing, with his highly acclaimed debut A Single Man. Ford has long been inspired by and worked with film stars. The New York nightclub of ‘70s infamy, Studio 54 was a major influence on his later collections and he has dressed many of Hollywood’s leading men including Daniel Craig as James Bond in Quantum of Solace. This success of A Single Man is testament to Ford’s power to link his lifetime dedication to fashion and the world of film to create something visually beautiful through the moving image.

Grace Kelly was fully aware of the importance of combining fashion and film, though some style icons come and go, Grace Kelly remains and improves over time.

The V&A is currently hosting a retrospective of her on and off screen clothes (running until 26 September). The show includes the beautiful original Hermes ‘Kelly’ bag. Thouh it has been made since the 1930s, thanks to Kelly being repeatedly photographed wearing hers, the price and waiting list has continued to increase ever since. With quiet glamour in fashion favour this summer, Grace Kelly is a true inspiration.

Though LCF lecturer Pamella Church Gibson thinks that things have changed not for the better over the last 15 years as she believes that you can use film to sell anything. “It’s linked with celebrity endorsement of designers and the power of the franchise”. Church has a point, Emma Watson is the highest paid actor in Hollywood and also the face of Burberry as designers use young people as advertisements. “It worries me terribly, I don’t think a film should be a commercial. People used to have to go to film school or fashion school.” Church and others argue that today people like Tom Ford, Stella McCartney and Madonna’s daughter can go into film or fashion just because of their status.

Whatever side of the argument you stand on, with the third Fashion and Film Festival in London later in 2010, and the rise of other fashion designers and photographers making films, it looks as though it will be another big year for stylish cinema.