Launching a sustainable fashion label

by Alice Parfrement and Dominique Major

The Centre for Sustainable Fashion at London College of Fashion has developed a series of workshops and mentoring sessions for London-based fashion businesses to help designers launch their own ethical fashion brands. It is a unique platform to work towards new ways of doing business through sustainable design strategies.

Michelle Lowe-Holder studied knitwear at Central Saint Martins, graduating in 2001, and now has an ethically produced line, Ribbon Reclaim. Having collected vintage clothing since she was twelve years old, Michelle feels that being ethical fits into her lifestyle: “The vintage thing is a big thing to me. It’s just a good fit. Everything in my home is recycled, old and beaten up”.

 

Pamela Atekpe graduated from CSM in 2002 after studying womenswear and also has her own brand Nyonyo & Yayra. Pamella hates the idea of being labelled as ethical but also believes her background moved her in this direction. “Partly because I’m Ghanaian, you recycle to the death! It’s in my culture, in my DNA. Part of being creative is being able to work in boundaries”.

Eleanor Dorrien-Smith graduated in 2008 with a BA fashion print pathway degree and has launched label Partimi. Eleanor said: “Being aware of an eco lifestyle was in my background, it was never pushed on me. It was something I was always aware of as I’ve always been inspired by nature”.

All three experienced the good and bad of CSM but have now discovered the rewards of being ethical that the Centre for Sustainable Fashion introduced them to. They each agree that their experiences at CSM were amazing, challenging yet hindered by poor facilities. “The talent there was the only redeeming feature”, Michelle recounts of her time at CSM.

The structure and time with tutors was not as good as they would have liked and even though they were given the chance to be creative, at the close of their courses it was sink or swim. Though the nurtured talent at CSM is clear, the school has beautiful visual research and whereas overseas everything is computerised, here the emphasis remains on doing the whole thing by hand the “old school way”.

The Centre for Sustainable Fashion at LCF was a way for them to do things ethically, individually and in a personalised way. Having graduated, the designers found it a great support and even a way of rebranding. Eleanor saw it as a push for her to enter a new realm. “It’s good at defining what part to concentrate on, you can find your specific area to make that work”. Michelle also praised the programme as it encouraged a new dimension: “We were very lucky we were chosen to represent them. It’s a fantastic opportunity”. The conferences, like the one during London Fashion Week, are a great way to build up contacts, chat, give and gain advice and to hear what other designers are doing.

They all want ethical fashion to evolve and become a bigger sector, yet the recession has had a huge impact on designers, making it harder for students to get work experience as placements are either shorter or just not run at all as some smallerdesigners cannot afford it.

The fashion industry is a tough place to be, and while it can be fun and rewarding it also takes constant hard work. Eleanor stresses that preparation is the key to success, “it goes without saying that you can’t be lazy, but before you step out naive and without experience, do your research and arm yourself with as much information as you can”.

Their tips for the future generations of fashion designers, is to do as much work experience that it humanly possible. Michelle emphasised the importance of varying placements from big to small companies. This will allow you to use the experience as a way of learning what is best for you as a person in the future.

“Making tea does no harm, sometimes you have to experience all sides of the spectrum, the good and the bad”. said Eleanor. She talked of her experience at John Galliano, where she found herself doing nothing but photocopying. But the negative experience turned into something positive when she found the copier was right next to the couture office. The experience allowed her to learn something from a place she would usually have no access to. Osmosis learning is always key and learning things by being involved is the message they champion.

When doing work experience they stress that it’s important to remember that working for someone you are in awe of can be different in reality. It is important to “get out of your ego and be there to help, placements are there to provide you with direction and it is important to remain open minded as places may not be what you expected”. says Pamela.

Michelle believes that the most beneficial thing to do is to “stay out of it for as long as possible”, by going back to university to do Masters degrees, she feels that individuals are able to work on their skills further and widen their knowledge. As less jobs are available, the more skills you learn you are able to increase your employability.

The fashion industry is in its own crisis. There appears to be less room within the industry for small labels, the big name high street stores will always manage to rise above them. Yet working for such places leaves you unrecognised, nobody can name who designs these store’s pieces. They don’t need designers due to the fact they are able to copy and replicate other styles seen elsewhere, usually from smaller brands. For Michelle her top tip is, to be careful of everyone, as plagiarism within the fashion industry is high. She experienced this herself when she opened magazines only to find direct copies of the designs she had worked so hard on.

However, if you do reach the success you have worked hard for, it is important to think through business decisions before you commit to anything. Make sure you meet the right people as their advice is essential, despite common beliefs lots of people are willing to help.

It’s a tough industry to crack but once you have found your direction like these three talented women, it’s like Pamela says: “You have to do it for the love of it”.