Fashion In Motion at the V&A

by Lauren Matthews

★★★★★

Models at Work showcases the new innovative work of the Paris-based museum director, curator and performer, Olivier Saillard.

Modelled by five famous French models, Axelle Doue, Claudia Huidobro, Anne Rohart, Violeta Sanchez and Amalia Vairelli, the show was broken down into five parts. Each part represented a crucial stage of the high fashion design processes that have developed over the years of fashion.

Designed to illustrate the importance of attitude and movement in the presentation of fashion, it highlighted the difference a great model can make to any fashion line.

The Models

The show took a critical look at the art of a pose. Even when the models were just  walking, their very movement and grace was enough to captivate the audience and enhance the beauty of the designs.

The use of older models wearing plain outfits brought the idea of timeless beauty to the forefront, where the audience was challenged to rethink preconceived ideas about what fashion is and how it should be presented.

In part one, the models began by striking poses simultaneously, in black floor-length sheaths, which were replicas of those used in the early 1920’s to protect the garments from the models’ skin. The models struck classic poses against the bold white stage setting. Stopping periodically down the catwalk, they moved with a classic elegance reflecting the time period perfectly.

The next part of the show was something I have never seen before in fashion. Once again, all models were dressed the same, this time in plain white tunics. This garment represented those that were traditionally worn by models whilst at in-house fittings. As the models moved down the catwalk they removed their tunics
and re-tied them in various ways each time creating a completely new, unique way of wearing the item.

The Finale

For many, a catwalk without fashion has never been seen before. In a bold move, Saillard sent models onto the runway in black bodysuits that then mimicked dressing and undressing. This was amazing to watch as each model moved in such a way that you began to visualise the dresses, jumpsuits, skirts and other high fashion items that were not actually there, but felt as if they were.

With the audience mesmerised,  part four started dramatically, as Violetta Sanchez marched out onto the catwalk – dragging behind her a long piece of calico – a material used when designers are first trying out the composition of garments before selecting appropriate fabrics. She then tore a piece from it and proceeded down the catwalk shaping it into a piece of fashion artwork. The other models followed suit, each with their own calico pieces, once again creating different garments out of the same material.

The final part brought fashion in the form of worked black tulle. Sketched by designer, Christian Lacroix, the garments recreated silhouettes from the work of top designers such as Yves Saint-Laurent, Claude Montana
 and Jean-Paul Gaultier. Each garment transformed the model’s body language, displaying different walks, poses and attitudes – the finalé encapsulated all the themes of the show. The audience was left with the view of
a long-trained coat worn by a model with a fierce strut that oozed attitude.

The Fashion in Motion series of designer catwalk shows is a brilliant way of encouraging fashion followers to think outside of usual concepts. They aim to make clothing design more accessible by bringing the excitement
and glamour of catwalk shows to a wider audience.